Ascot Forum

I would think that it being a roller bearing crankshaft instead of a plain bearing type that your oil pressure might read lower than you think it should when you are able to check it without knowing what the factory calls for , I use 20'50 Valvoline race oil , I live where it gets pretty hot for 3 to 4 months ,like hundred plus for days on end ,don;t ride much in the real hot weather but have had good luck with said oil which I use in my race bikes also just a diff weight. just change it a lot and the filter seems to work well. Now off subject does anyone have info on fixing the speedo , mine broke about 3 months ago like it to able to keep it reading close to the actual miles which was just under 8000 a few months back when it broke.   

Nice, which model of the progressive springs was it?

When racing I have to remove the side and center stand, which means that parking the bike is a bit difficult.
To make it a lot easier to prop the bike up I welded 2 long nuts on the rear swing arm to fit paddock stand bobbins.

The Hagon shocks I bought are a bit longer than the orignals (was recommended this by someone who races FT500s). The bike looks pretty sweet with the shocks installed.
I also made a muffler support from a strip of aluminium. Might add some speedholes in it to add lightness

Thanks.
I indeed used a similar tool. Works like a charm and you don't have to drop the valves in or turn the forks upside down to get them out.

I just ordered new shocks and progressive fork springs so the whole suspension should be sorted.

Got the PD-valves in the mail this weekend and installed them.
Really clever little things.
You put them in your forks between the damper rod and the spring.
The spring preload of the little valve controlles the amount of oil that can flow when the forks compress, with that it controlles the compression damping.
Rebound is still controlled with the oil viscoscity.
I've set the valves on 3 turns preload (out of 7) for now. The forks still feel a bit soft but this could also be due to the relatively weak standard fork springs.
I had to shorten the fork spacer with 14mm (thickness of the PD-valves) to keep normal pre-load on the fork springs.
I'll keep them like this for now, changing the pre-load on the PD-valves is relatively easy so I can dail them in further when I get to test ride the bike a bit (you do have to 'open up' the forks by removing the top cap, spacer and springs).