Ascot Forum
First Generation Ascots => The Thumper Years: Stock To Lightly Modified => Topic started by: greenjeans on July 10, 2017, 08:38:28 am
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Finally got to ride my 82 FT500. It started very easily with a few rolls down the drive way to bump it. Anyway, it's the only way I can start the bike. Starter does not engage. You can hear clicks when you hit the start button. Nothing at the starter.
I tested the solenoid (the one closest to the actual starter) - it works. It was very clean, but I cleaned, checked and tested it anyway. (Tested using procedure in the manual)
I tested the relay under the seat. It is also functioning properly.
The starter relay switch appears to be the culprit. The fuse in it tests good. When I check for continuity as directed by the manual, the switch is BAD.
*BUT, according to the drawing in the manual I think there may be a mistake ? See below - It shows that you connect the prong Y/R to the + side of a 12v battery and the Y/Black to the - side. The drawing has them reversed from what is coming out of the actual wiring harness. I do not think the harness has been altered, but anything is possible over 35 years. I hooked it up according to the photo before I noticed that the drawing was different from what I actually have.
** I have not tried jumping across the posts of the Starter Relay since there seem to be 5000 relays etc. That wouldn't hurt anything would it ? That way I would know very quickly if that was my problem correct ?
Could that cause a bad test or fry the relay ? Not able to find a replacement (35850-KE5-000)
Is there a known substitute relay switch that I could use ? Aren't they all pretty much the same ?
The wiring diagram doesn't show definitively the order of the prongs in the 4 pin connector.
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A screwdriver across the big posts of the starter relay will tell if the starter motor is going to work. Should not hurt it as that is what it does anyway.
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Yep, I know that trick. I tested the solenoid according to the manual (see pic) and it doesn't work. Got a replacement (cheapo). And for giggles, I hooked it up to test and it actually made an audible click. But, since I'm a curios dummy, I reversed the hook up just to see if it would have any effect. Well now, the new solenoid tests bad.
I was always under the impression that those 2 wires wouldn't matter?
Any ideas? I guess it IS possible that the harness cloud have had a new 4-pin connector on there, but the bike seems clean enough that I doubt that.
Is the manual correct? Does the order in which those 2 (yellow/red & yellow/bulk) wires connect even matter?
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I checked my bike, and the manual is indeed incorrect. It shouldn't make any difference which yellow coil wire is connected to the battery+ for the test, as long as the switch isn't connected to the harness. You should be able to measure the coil resistance across the yellow wires; I don't see it listed in the manual, but I would expect about 4 ohms? Does the replacement have the fuse holder/plug attached, or is it like a 750 with two loose wires?