First Generation Ascots > The Thumper Years: Modified To Full Customs
Dutch FT project
FT500R:
Thanks for the tips.
I'm still a bit in doubt if I should use galvanized or stainless bolts since the stainless can react with the aluminium engine and seize.
I did continue on the bike yesterday.
First I did a quick check if the carb would fit on the engine with the short Harley inlet.
Conclusion... inconclusive. With just the inlet manifold it doesn't fit. With the original spacer between the cilinder head and the manifold it almost fits. Problem is the bracket that supports the throttle cables. This will have to be altered in order for it to fit. (also taking into regard that the throttle cables themselves have adjusters on them making the fit even tighter)
You can see the fitment issues in the pictures, also clearly visible is that the time standing still under the cover took its toll on the carb.
Seeing the carb in the state that is was made me decide to try to clean it a bit.
Some bolts did not completely agree with my effort though
Some light encouragement with a impact driver solved that issue
The eventual exploded view of the carb
And after some thorough cleaning
I'm probably going to spray paint the rusted brackets and replace all the bolts.
When I was disassembling the throttle and choke stems (what would be a more appropriate English word?) I found some completely disintegrated seals. I couldn't really identify what they were made of. Looked almost like some kind of rope-like material.
Any of you know what kind of material this has been since they definitely need replacing?
J6G1Z:
That cleaned up well. I think I might have left the butterfly attached & cleaned around it. See if you can stake those two screws in place from the backside. If not, clean the threads real well & use some stout Lok-Tite thread locker. Wouldn't want those screws to back out while the engine is running. Pretty much guaranteed that they won't end up in the air-cleaner side.
Here is the only FT500 carb rebuild kit that I know of: https://www.randakks.com/ft500-ascot-randakk-master-carb-overhaul-kit.html
They also offer a book on how to rebuild & modify the FT500 carb. Here is their site link: https://www.randakks.com
The FT500 carb is a nice piece. It has an accelerator pump that feeds a squirt of fuel into the carb every time you twist the throttle. I use that feature to prime my bike prior to starting.
Another option would be a 36mm Mikuni. Some have used the 34mm & modified bikes have used the 38mm. If you go that route, you will need a 90 degree throttle cable mount on top of the carb to clear the frame.
About stainless steel fasteners & aluminum... Whenever I work on a bike, I use an anti-seize paste on all the fasteners upon reassembly. I cover the threads, the shank & the backside of the screw or bolt head.
https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/
http://www.antiseize.com
I wish that all the bike manufacturers used anti-seize during initial assembly.
Here is another bit of information that you might find helpful: http://ascot500.com/index.php?topic=128.msg460#msg460
Good luck
J.
FT500R:
Took some time to work on the engine last night
To get the engine ready for paint I wanted to remove both side covers and the valve cover.
This did go pretty smooth up to the point that I got to the valve cover, a couple of the bolts needed a bit of convincing and a bit of thread came loose. The worst one actually snapped of halfway in the threads :(.
I'm going to freshen up the threads with a screw tap and try to remove the broken peace.
Time for some pictures:
Left side
Left side engine cover
Right side
Camshaft looks pretty ok, the lobes are not worn down or anything although they have a bit of marking on them.
Thread that came out of 2 of the bolt holes
Bolt that snapped
triguyracer:
Try using a left handed drill bit , many times this will remove a broken bolt without damaging the threads in the head, doesnt work all the time but will work many times, also using some heat from a hand held torch will help swell the alloy from around steel bolt and help free up the bolt so it will come out
FT500R:
Had some time during Easter holidays to work on my engine
I tried to clean the engine as much as possible. Looking back I should have left the side and rocker covers on and powerwashed the engine. Now I had to slave using degreaser, wirewool, old toothbrushes, Q-tips and my Dremel to try and get all the grit and grease off.
How the engine looked after some thorough cleaning (yes I worked on it on my living room table)
After cleaning I had to mask everything. I figured out a fast and effective way to mask small parts using cling foil! Works very well
After giving the engine a first coat of primer
All the silverware after its first coat of paint
All painted pieces.
A quick mock up of the engine
The other side
And a before and after compilation just for the fun of it
I've used motip wheel spray for the engine (VHT is better but that is not sold to consumers here in the Netherlands) I'm not disappointed by the results so far although I think that, especially for the amount of work I put into it, with a bit more prep and a better working environment the result could have been even better.
I deliberately did not mask all the bolts as some of them were quite rusty and I didn't want to replace them because that would mean I had to disassemble the whole engine.
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